Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Product spotlight, June 2010
Costata Romanesco Squash
'Costata Romanesco' is an heirloom Italian zucchini famed for its flavor and texture. Flavor is of gourmet quality and much sweeter and nuttier than modern hybrids. The fruits are green with lighter flecks, and they are ribbed, which makes attractive scalloped rounds when sliced. This is a wonderful variety, well-known by gourmet chefs. But it does have its flaws. Primary among them is the size; it has huge, sprawling plants that take up a lot of space. Yield is only half that of many hybrid varieties, and it is susceptible to powdery mildew which can cut short its productivity. Still, many growers find that Costata Romanesco is well worth the trouble because it is so distinctive and delicious. 52 days to maturity.
Sunflowers
Want to stand out from the competition among sunflower growers? Try growing these branching varieties with unusual colors that will generate excitement among your customers.
'Peach Passion' has fluffy yellow petals suffused with hints of peach, surrounding greenish yellow centers. It's a heavy producer, too, and blooms in just 55 days.
'Buttercream' has pale, delicate petals that contrast dramatically with the dark brown centers. 50-60 days to maturity.
'Chocolate' is the darkest brown sunflower, with petals that are absolutely velvety. 60 days to maturity.
Branching sunflowers tend to not be as long-lived in the vase as single-stemmed sunflowers, so they should be picked just as the petals are lifting off the face of the flower. Use extremely clean buckets, clippers and water and, for non-organic growers, flower preservative to extend vase life.
Tools
As the article about weeding in this issue points out, you should choose the right tool for each kind of weed problem. Johnny's has a great selection of hoes for just about every situation you might encounter. The Long-Handled Wire Weeder is designed for precision weeding among closely spaced seedlings such as salad mix, carrots, and onions. A Collinear Hoe allows you to stand up straight and slice weeds off just below the surface. Watch video of Eliot Coleman using the Collinear Hoe.
Stirrup Hoes are designed to handle bigger weeds quickly, using a push and pull motion that is made even easier with the optional mushroom grip. The Trapezoid Hoe has a sharp blade for skimming across a bed of mid-sized weeds, and sharp corners for digging out stubborn roots. The Cobrahead® has a powerful steel blade that can be used to sweep away small weeds, dig out big ones, make furrows, and much more, depending on how you turn the blade. For close hand work, Johnny's offers a half-dozen styles of short-handled cultivators.
The Glaser Wheel Hoe is the most efficient way to weed larger areas, like the footpath and just to either side of it. It has optional accessories that can be attached to the frame for other tasks such as hilling and seeding.
Watch video about Johnny's Broadforks.
Disease control
As the weather warms, plant diseases begin to take their toll on vegetable crops. Johnny's has the newest, most effective products available for controlling diseases organically. Here are three that are OMRI approved and WSDA listed for use on certified-organic farms:
- Actinovate® contains beneficial bacterium in a water-soluble powder that can be used as a soil drench against pythium, rhizoctonia, fusarium, and many other soil-borne diseases. It also can be used as a foliar spray against airborne pathogens such as powdery and downy mildews, botrytis, and alternaria.
- Champ® is a copper fungicide for the control of early and late blight, leaf spot, bacterial blight, and many other diseases. It can be used as a preventative or at the first sign of disease.
- Oxidate® is hydrogen dioxide that can be used for the prevention or control of plant pathogens, as a pre-plant dip, soil drench, foliar spray, and surface disinfectant. It can be alternated with Champ or other copper fungicides to prevent the development of tolerance.
For details on which products are effective against specific diseases, please see the chart in the Grower's Library on our website.
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
What's New At The Farm? 5/26/10
Busy, busy, busy!
We're keeping busy planting and transplanting; both in the greenhouses and in the fields. Lots of ground prep activities like chisel plowing, harrowing, rototilling and making beds. One more small field and the fertilizer spreading will be done. And here's what everyone's doing:
Jason has become one with the mulch layer. He has laid approximately 35,000 feet of IRT mulch and has another 50,000 or so to go. Our conversations every morning start with "you'll be laying plastic today". The fields here on the Albion farm get drip tape, but the isolated fields do not, so they go much faster. He'll be at the farm today and tomorrow and at the surrounding fields the rest of this week and all of next week.
Jeff is driving the transplanter as Kelly, Becky and Sonya are transplanting lettuce and endive in the main trial field. Craig, Gordon and Matt are working with Adam on some new tunnels, Nick is making beds at one of our isolation fields, Jill is harvesting strawberries in the poly tunnel Elisa is going from greenhouse to greenhouse, Russ and Megan are planting in one of the greenhouses, Mike is thinning lettuce and I'm mapping fields; hoping everything will fit.
The weather has been warm and dry so we have accomplished much in the past few weeks. This week and next week will see the bulk of the planting and transplanting; then all we have to do is take care of it. Thousands of plants will get transplanted onto tens of thousands of feet of bare ground and also into plastic mulch. Crops to be transplanted include peppers, brassicas, leeks, melons, lettuce, tomatoes, eggplant, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers and just about anything else you can think of. Direct seeded crops include beans, sweet corn, turnips, greens, lettuces and herbs are all slated to go in.
Although I long to be in the field, it is imperative I get all the necessary planning done. Nothing worse than getting out in to the field planting when you run out of room to plant. There are many factors that can affect how much room is in the field to plant. Wider bed spacing can throw off the bedfeet figures, beds not going all the way to the end of the field and the biggest culprit is: inaccurate math. Figuring bedfeet is challenging at best. With the different spacing of each crop, field conditions and plant loss before we get into the field, figuring out exactly how many feet is needed for each particular crop is challenging.
Fields change over the years. For example, we rent a field down the road from Johnny's. We have rented this field for probably around 15 years or so. When I first mapped out this field there were 3.75 acres in it. It has since shrunk! It now has 1.9 acres plantable ground. And why? Because we stopped using parts of the field: the part that is all ledge - impossible to plow and nothing will grow there because there is no topsoil. We stopped using a small portion next to the woods because of the damage from feathered and furry creatures, we stopped using some of the southern uphill slope due to the tremendous amount of rocks - here again plants can't grow there as there isn't any room for their roots. These ledgy and rocky spots are just too hard on the equipment to grind up anyways. There's a couple of spots where there's ledge poking out of the ground - we eliminated these as well. So the original map shows 27,225 bedfeet and the new one shows 13,833 feet - a huge difference when planning the fields. If I planned on using 20 thousand feet and then went out to plant I would be surprised, and not the good way either. At that time I would have to juggle some crops and fields around or otherwise find some additional ground and ground prep more than I had planned.
So, memo to myself, make new field maps every couple of years and that will help in the planning stages midwinter.
Until next week, this is what it's all about.
Brian
We're keeping busy planting and transplanting; both in the greenhouses and in the fields. Lots of ground prep activities like chisel plowing, harrowing, rototilling and making beds. One more small field and the fertilizer spreading will be done. And here's what everyone's doing:
Jason has become one with the mulch layer. He has laid approximately 35,000 feet of IRT mulch and has another 50,000 or so to go. Our conversations every morning start with "you'll be laying plastic today". The fields here on the Albion farm get drip tape, but the isolated fields do not, so they go much faster. He'll be at the farm today and tomorrow and at the surrounding fields the rest of this week and all of next week.
Jeff is driving the transplanter as Kelly, Becky and Sonya are transplanting lettuce and endive in the main trial field. Craig, Gordon and Matt are working with Adam on some new tunnels, Nick is making beds at one of our isolation fields, Jill is harvesting strawberries in the poly tunnel Elisa is going from greenhouse to greenhouse, Russ and Megan are planting in one of the greenhouses, Mike is thinning lettuce and I'm mapping fields; hoping everything will fit.
The weather has been warm and dry so we have accomplished much in the past few weeks. This week and next week will see the bulk of the planting and transplanting; then all we have to do is take care of it. Thousands of plants will get transplanted onto tens of thousands of feet of bare ground and also into plastic mulch. Crops to be transplanted include peppers, brassicas, leeks, melons, lettuce, tomatoes, eggplant, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers and just about anything else you can think of. Direct seeded crops include beans, sweet corn, turnips, greens, lettuces and herbs are all slated to go in.
Although I long to be in the field, it is imperative I get all the necessary planning done. Nothing worse than getting out in to the field planting when you run out of room to plant. There are many factors that can affect how much room is in the field to plant. Wider bed spacing can throw off the bedfeet figures, beds not going all the way to the end of the field and the biggest culprit is: inaccurate math. Figuring bedfeet is challenging at best. With the different spacing of each crop, field conditions and plant loss before we get into the field, figuring out exactly how many feet is needed for each particular crop is challenging.
Fields change over the years. For example, we rent a field down the road from Johnny's. We have rented this field for probably around 15 years or so. When I first mapped out this field there were 3.75 acres in it. It has since shrunk! It now has 1.9 acres plantable ground. And why? Because we stopped using parts of the field: the part that is all ledge - impossible to plow and nothing will grow there because there is no topsoil. We stopped using a small portion next to the woods because of the damage from feathered and furry creatures, we stopped using some of the southern uphill slope due to the tremendous amount of rocks - here again plants can't grow there as there isn't any room for their roots. These ledgy and rocky spots are just too hard on the equipment to grind up anyways. There's a couple of spots where there's ledge poking out of the ground - we eliminated these as well. So the original map shows 27,225 bedfeet and the new one shows 13,833 feet - a huge difference when planning the fields. If I planned on using 20 thousand feet and then went out to plant I would be surprised, and not the good way either. At that time I would have to juggle some crops and fields around or otherwise find some additional ground and ground prep more than I had planned.
So, memo to myself, make new field maps every couple of years and that will help in the planning stages midwinter.
Until next week, this is what it's all about.
Brian
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
What's New At The Farm? 5/19/10
The farm is bustling with activity now as we approach planting season. The greenhouses are rapidly filling up; actually about to be bursting at the seams. All the fields have had their initial field prep done and the direct seeding in the field is on schedule. The fertilizer has been spread and incorporated, the field planning is nearly complete, and next week the full farm crew will be here. What a great time of year!
All the birds around the farm are nesting and many have young ones now. There's much cheeping in birdhouses, around the tops of doors, in the bushes around the buildings and in the fencerows. They grow so fast it won't be much time before the first batch flies away.
I am going to talk about traveling between fields while working today, otherwise titled "What you can see whilst driving tractors". Driving a tractor is slow enough that you have some time to look around; not a lot but some.
Friday last week I was on my way to one of our isolated fields when I spotted a mother Mallard and eight or ten little ducklings following her in an irrigation pond. This isn't something you wouldn't normally see in a vehicle whizzing by. I often see birds or animals in the ditches, at home in their own world but ever so close to the danger of traffic. I see shadows overhead; a bird between the sun and me; probably a lot closer to me. Large shadows are often eagles or turkey vultures, mid-sized ones are crows and ravens, and small shadows are songbirds eager to get on their way.
Cats, muskrats, rabbits, turtles, the occasional deer and moose, and assorted farm animals are something we often see whilst driving farm equipment. Once, while harrowing a field near Johnny's I spotted movement in the bushes next to the field; it turned out to be a rather large sow pig, obviously escaped from the local pig farmer. I imagine chasing a large sow after work is a lot of fun but the owner didn't share his experiences with me. Horses, cows and the occasional pig have all been seen at one time or another whilst driving equipment around. Animals I've yet to see include lions, tigers and bears.
The first batches of killdeer have hatched out. There are four babies in the main trial field, four in field W-1 and a new nest at the Benton field. I was harrowing W-1 last week; on Wednesday there were four eggs in a nest and the next day they were gone. I was harrowing Benton 1 Friday last week when I spotted a killdeer doing the broken wing thing. I got off the tractor and two feet ahead of my front tire was her nest. I marked it with some field stakes I had with me and will avoid that part of the field until the eggs hatch. Many times through careful searching you can find their nests, but sometimes you just can't. Three nests saved so far this year is pretty good, I think.
Until next week, enjoy all that nature has to offer.
Brian
All the birds around the farm are nesting and many have young ones now. There's much cheeping in birdhouses, around the tops of doors, in the bushes around the buildings and in the fencerows. They grow so fast it won't be much time before the first batch flies away.
I am going to talk about traveling between fields while working today, otherwise titled "What you can see whilst driving tractors". Driving a tractor is slow enough that you have some time to look around; not a lot but some.
Friday last week I was on my way to one of our isolated fields when I spotted a mother Mallard and eight or ten little ducklings following her in an irrigation pond. This isn't something you wouldn't normally see in a vehicle whizzing by. I often see birds or animals in the ditches, at home in their own world but ever so close to the danger of traffic. I see shadows overhead; a bird between the sun and me; probably a lot closer to me. Large shadows are often eagles or turkey vultures, mid-sized ones are crows and ravens, and small shadows are songbirds eager to get on their way.
Cats, muskrats, rabbits, turtles, the occasional deer and moose, and assorted farm animals are something we often see whilst driving farm equipment. Once, while harrowing a field near Johnny's I spotted movement in the bushes next to the field; it turned out to be a rather large sow pig, obviously escaped from the local pig farmer. I imagine chasing a large sow after work is a lot of fun but the owner didn't share his experiences with me. Horses, cows and the occasional pig have all been seen at one time or another whilst driving equipment around. Animals I've yet to see include lions, tigers and bears.
The first batches of killdeer have hatched out. There are four babies in the main trial field, four in field W-1 and a new nest at the Benton field. I was harrowing W-1 last week; on Wednesday there were four eggs in a nest and the next day they were gone. I was harrowing Benton 1 Friday last week when I spotted a killdeer doing the broken wing thing. I got off the tractor and two feet ahead of my front tire was her nest. I marked it with some field stakes I had with me and will avoid that part of the field until the eggs hatch. Many times through careful searching you can find their nests, but sometimes you just can't. Three nests saved so far this year is pretty good, I think.
Until next week, enjoy all that nature has to offer.
Brian
Monday, May 17, 2010
Pest of the Week: Flea Beetles
Photo Courtesy of Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Extension
Crucifer Flea Beetle (Phyllotreta crucifera)
Striped Flea Beetle (Phyllotreta striolatae)
Life Cycle: Flea beetles are very crop specific. Discussed in this article will be the two major flea beetle pests on crucifer crops, the Crucifer Flea Beetle and the Striped Flea Beetle. Adults of both species overwinter in edges, mostly thick duff, forest edges, and shrubby areas around fields where host crops are grown. Adults emerge in the spring and immediately begin feeding on host plants. Beetles come out over several weeks. Females begin to lay eggs in the soil at the base of host plants a few weeks after feeding. Larvae hatch and feed on root hairs. This stage of feeding is usually not damaging to plants. Larvae pupate into adults after about a month. There are usually two, sometimes three generations per year in warmer climates and one generation per year in northern climates. Striped Flea Beetles emerge slightly earlier than the Crucifer Flea Beetle. The adult Crucifer Flea Beetle is black and sometimes metallic looking. The Striped Flea Beetle has two light yellow stripes, one on each side of its back.
Photo Courtesy of the North Dakota State University Agriculture and University Extension
Plants effected: Cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, radish, daikon radish, pak choi, bok choi, and other crucifer crops including weed plants in the crucifer family like yellow rocket and wild mustards.
Insect Habit: Adults are strongly attracted to crucifer crops. Flea beetles are very powerful fliers and hoppers, jumping like fleas when disturbed. They easily find host plants in the spring; first feeding on weeds, like wild mustards, in field edges and then enticed to younger crucifer crops as soon as they emerge. Feeding occurs on the edges of waxy-leafed crops and as shothole feeding on less waxy crops. Beetles feed heavily during the first weeks of summer. As overwintering adults die off in mid-summer, feeding pressure is reduced. Emerging adults feed before moving into field edges for the winter. Host plant pressure may increase in the later months of the summer, and, in warmer climates, into early fall months. This pressure is not as intense as the early-season feeding.
Control: Row cover is, by far, the best protection against flea beetle pressure. In conjunction, reducing weeds on field edges, rotating crops, and keeping shrubs (reducing thick leaf litter) to a minimum along field edges will help keep flea beetle pressure lighter than it otherwise could be. Planting crucifer crops after overwintering adults have died off is an option but difficult if crucifer crops are desired as an early crop. Row cover placed on crops as they are seeded or at the time of transplant is essential. Flea beetles find transplants and emerging seedlings very easily. Use Agribon+ AG-15 Insect Barrier (#9057, 9051 or 9050 – depending upon space needing coverage). Insecticide options include Pyganic® (#9192, 9532), Liquid Rotenone-Pyrethrin Concentrate (#9336), and for radishes Entrust® (#9068). Read all product labels in full and follow label instructions as specified for that particular product.
Resources:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/M1210.html
http://www.umassvegetable.org/soil_crop_pest_mgt/insect_mgt/documents/MaterialsforFleaBeetleHazzard.pdf
http://www.uwex.edu/ces/wihort/gardenfacts/x1022.pdf
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Ogunquit eatery that was subject of one of Johnny's catalog covers is honored
Arrows Restaurant owners/chefs Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier were recently named the Best Chefs in the Northeast by the James Beard Foundation. Read more in the Portland Press Herald newspaper.
Arrows, located in Ogunquit, Maine, grows most of its own produce, including many Johnny's varieties. One of Johnny's 2009 catalog covers features the eatery's kitchen garden.
Request a Johnny's catalog.
Arrows Restaurant
Arrows, located in Ogunquit, Maine, grows most of its own produce, including many Johnny's varieties. One of Johnny's 2009 catalog covers features the eatery's kitchen garden.
Request a Johnny's catalog.
Arrows Restaurant
What's New At The Farm? 5/12/10
The weather is cooperating, so we're busy out in the fields. Becky is finishing up the plowing, Matt has been spreading fertilizer, Craig is making beds and Jason is laying plastic. Nick is showing all equipment operators the finer points of driving and using the equipment. Everyone that isn't operating equipment is busy in the greenhouses, which are filling up fast. 'Tis the season, you know!
This week we direct seeded spring greens so we'll have them to look forward to. We'll also seed beets, roots, radishes and several other small seeded crops as time and weather permit. The calendar says the middle of May and, by the looks of the temps lately, I agree it's the middle of May. It's too early to get many transplants out but it's the perfect time to get the field work done and get ready for the "big push". The "big push" happens around Memorial Day when we want to get all the transplants in as quickly as we can.
Part of the problem with all this transplanting is for many years we only had one transplanting machine. This year we have two transplanters so the "big push" should be easier to handle. We now have the ability to transplant twice as many crops in the same time frame as planting one. Of course we have many more crops this year to transplant, but still, it should go much faster than the previous few years.
It's interesting observing this spring's weather and it's affect on plants and animals. For example the Japanese Knotweed that seems to grow everywhere was hit by frost once and perhaps twice this week. It was growing vigorously, and now it looks like it's close to dead; it will be interesting to see if it recovers or if it sends new shoots up from the roots. That's all I can think of good to say about this invasive weed.
It's quite amazing to see how tall the grass has gotten in the hayfields. I remember growing up on the dairy farm, when June cut hay was early. I'd be surprised if locals weren't cutting any grass now as the field I walked through yesterday was approximately 18 inches tall; very early for here. The weeds are blossoming and setting seed; chickweed and shepherds purse being the two I noticed the best. It's a good time to grind them; before they go to seed.
Not having any frozen ground this past winter allowed many things to overwinter instead of dying. Yes, I'm going to mention ticks again. They're out and about and hungry; I've removed two already. Besides wearing long clothes and tucking everything in (this is really great in hot weather) there are some other things you can do to keep ticks at bay. Spraying your clothes with an insect repellant works, keeping the grass mowed will discourage them and employing ducks, chickens and guinea hens will reduce their numbers. Ticks have only been an issue in the past few years here; we never had them when we were growing up.
I think some weeds overwintered although the spring has been conducive to early season weed control. We're stale bedding much of the farm this year, so we'll have a jump on weed control. The fields we plowed a couple of weeks ago are starting to green up with the first flush of weeds. We'll pick a day that's sunny and warm and harrow them. We'll at least kill a couple of million weeds before the growing season gets underway in good shape.
Our globe artichokes on the farm survived a Maine winter under row covers. I don't think this is something we can count on every year, but at least for this year. We'll split up the plants this week and replant the shoots and wait to see what they're going to do.
Until next week, Brian
This week we direct seeded spring greens so we'll have them to look forward to. We'll also seed beets, roots, radishes and several other small seeded crops as time and weather permit. The calendar says the middle of May and, by the looks of the temps lately, I agree it's the middle of May. It's too early to get many transplants out but it's the perfect time to get the field work done and get ready for the "big push". The "big push" happens around Memorial Day when we want to get all the transplants in as quickly as we can.
Part of the problem with all this transplanting is for many years we only had one transplanting machine. This year we have two transplanters so the "big push" should be easier to handle. We now have the ability to transplant twice as many crops in the same time frame as planting one. Of course we have many more crops this year to transplant, but still, it should go much faster than the previous few years.
It's interesting observing this spring's weather and it's affect on plants and animals. For example the Japanese Knotweed that seems to grow everywhere was hit by frost once and perhaps twice this week. It was growing vigorously, and now it looks like it's close to dead; it will be interesting to see if it recovers or if it sends new shoots up from the roots. That's all I can think of good to say about this invasive weed.
It's quite amazing to see how tall the grass has gotten in the hayfields. I remember growing up on the dairy farm, when June cut hay was early. I'd be surprised if locals weren't cutting any grass now as the field I walked through yesterday was approximately 18 inches tall; very early for here. The weeds are blossoming and setting seed; chickweed and shepherds purse being the two I noticed the best. It's a good time to grind them; before they go to seed.
Not having any frozen ground this past winter allowed many things to overwinter instead of dying. Yes, I'm going to mention ticks again. They're out and about and hungry; I've removed two already. Besides wearing long clothes and tucking everything in (this is really great in hot weather) there are some other things you can do to keep ticks at bay. Spraying your clothes with an insect repellant works, keeping the grass mowed will discourage them and employing ducks, chickens and guinea hens will reduce their numbers. Ticks have only been an issue in the past few years here; we never had them when we were growing up.
I think some weeds overwintered although the spring has been conducive to early season weed control. We're stale bedding much of the farm this year, so we'll have a jump on weed control. The fields we plowed a couple of weeks ago are starting to green up with the first flush of weeds. We'll pick a day that's sunny and warm and harrow them. We'll at least kill a couple of million weeds before the growing season gets underway in good shape.
Our globe artichokes on the farm survived a Maine winter under row covers. I don't think this is something we can count on every year, but at least for this year. We'll split up the plants this week and replant the shoots and wait to see what they're going to do.
Until next week, Brian
Monday, May 10, 2010
Pest of the Week: Snails and Slugs
Photo courtesy of Jack Kelly Clark, University of California IPM
Photo courtesy of the Texas Agricultural Extension Service, Texas A&M UniversityLife Cycle: All snails and slugs are hermaphrodites (both male and female organs in one animal); therefore all can lay eggs. They can lay eggs up to six times per year. Snails and slugs overwinter as eggs in most places. In mild climates or areas protected from freezing, adults can survive winter months.
Plants effected: Very wide ranging, from cabbage to strawberries to lettuce. They prefer tender foliage and soft, decaying organic matter.
Control: Reduce shady, wet areas in and around crops. Eliminate ground covers directly surrounding desired crops. Snails and slugs hide in these types of areas during the heat of the day. To trap, dig holes about 6” deep and cover them with a board wrapped in foil. The foil will reflect the sun and keep the hole cool. This hole will attract snails and slugs to hide in during hot, dry weather where they can be collected and dispatched. Barriers to exclude snails and slugs from crops are effective. Copper foil can be wrapped around trunks, planters, etc. Wood ashes are also helpful as a barrier. Ashes or other abrasives must be reapplied frequently, as their efficacy is reduced after they get wet. Encourage native predators like ground beetles, birds, toads, and turtles. These natural enemies, coupled with traps, hand picking, barriers, and baits can help reduce damaging populations. Spread WSDA-listed, OMRI approved Sluggo® (#9207, #9003, #9184, #9208) as a bait on the ground surrounding susceptible crops in the late afternoon or evening hours, just before snails and slugs emerge to feed. In wetter areas, when it is a cloudy day, snails and slugs may feed during the day, too.
Resources:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
http://www.hgic.umd.edu/_media/documents/hg92_001.pdf
http://pmo.umext.maine.edu/factsht/Slugs.htm
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
What's New At The Farm? 5/5/10
The first of May brings us unusually warm weather; the eighties and nineties are fairly uncommon for the first of May and don't we know it! I'm not used to this heat and it slows me down considerably working in the garden. Yes, I know I said no garden this year but I had a few things I had to put in. I brought home fifteen blueberries from Johnny's and Peggy brought home three grapes. I set aside one bed on the west edge of the garden and had just room enough for them along with 25 asparagus plants and 3 rhubarb crowns. I also left a bed to the east of the blueberry bed to access it from; this will be seeded to a grass I can mow. I can use my four wheeler cart to haul bark mulch in as needed.
The blueberries will get a generous amount of pine chips for mulch. In the summer of 2008 we had deer fence installed around the farm. We seized that opportunity to cut down some pasture pine that shaded a small field. We hauled the trees out into the open and chipped all the branches. I figure there's at least 5 pickup loads of chips there and will make ideal mulch. As soon as I remove them from where they are, we can plow up that field. They'll keep the soil around the blueberries moist and acidic. The blueberries bed covers 300 square feet, so each year I will need to apply a layer about two inches deep; this will take approximately 2 cubic yards yearly.
The rhubarb and asparagus beds will get a liberal amount of compost added and tilled in. I may put some cedar logs around them so I can mound them up a bit; I have some out in the "back forty". Cedar will last many years and is all natural of course. I built raised beds around the foundation of the house twenty years ago, and they finally need replacing now. Not bad for longevity I'd say! The location I have chosen for these plantings should be ideal for maintaining the plants and for optimum and undisturbed growth.
Left to plant in the garden are some potatoes I picked up for new potatoes, a short row of green beans and a couple of rows of Gladiolas. The glads are for fresh cuttings; we cut them and put them in a galvanized bucket to place on the porch. The smaller stems get put into a bouquet and taken to my mother to brighten her house. Add a couple of dozen Brussels Sprouts plants and the garden is complete.
The first raised bed I made is about to yield its first crop of greens; what a treat after a winter's worth of supermarket greens. Another raised bed is getting devoted to onions and one more (I have yet to build), is going to be summer squash, zucchini and cucumbers. I've used sterile potting mix in the raised beds so far but I think I'll use a hefty amount of garden soil along with compost on the third one. I used potting mix to avoid the weed seed issues, but it's getting expensive.
At the farm this week we start our first of many transplanting jobs. This week onions, stock & snaps, and Chinese cabbage will go out. With the warmer than usual weather this spring, everything is bursting at the seams to get outside and get growing. Looks like cooler weather for the end of this week; more seasonable. Much of the ground prep has been accomplished and we're making beds and getting ready to start laying plastic. Most of the fertilizer has been spread and tilled in, 95% of the plowing has been done and what cover crops are left are growing rapidly before they get turned under. The turkeys are breeding; the males are strutting around like they're quite something. The tree swallows are building nests now; there's one outside my window looking in; must be wondering why I'm inside on a gorgeous day like today. Two of the greenhouses have received new plastic. One has received a new cement floor and the bench frames are in and put together. The bench tops - well - we're waiting for them. I hope they get here before we need them but I don't think so. Greenhouse 1 & 3 are filled to overflowing so we'll have to start using greenhouse 2 by the end of this week.
It's quite dry for this time of year; I am concerned it is going to be really dry this summer. After last year's rainy and damp summer, I'm already fussing about it being too dry. We'll just have to watch the weather and have all the irrigation equipment ready to go. We usually start irrigating the small seeded crops directly after we plant them; to give them optimum growing conditions and to prevent crusting of the soil while they germinate.
Until next week, enjoy the spring.
Brian
The blueberries will get a generous amount of pine chips for mulch. In the summer of 2008 we had deer fence installed around the farm. We seized that opportunity to cut down some pasture pine that shaded a small field. We hauled the trees out into the open and chipped all the branches. I figure there's at least 5 pickup loads of chips there and will make ideal mulch. As soon as I remove them from where they are, we can plow up that field. They'll keep the soil around the blueberries moist and acidic. The blueberries bed covers 300 square feet, so each year I will need to apply a layer about two inches deep; this will take approximately 2 cubic yards yearly.
The rhubarb and asparagus beds will get a liberal amount of compost added and tilled in. I may put some cedar logs around them so I can mound them up a bit; I have some out in the "back forty". Cedar will last many years and is all natural of course. I built raised beds around the foundation of the house twenty years ago, and they finally need replacing now. Not bad for longevity I'd say! The location I have chosen for these plantings should be ideal for maintaining the plants and for optimum and undisturbed growth.
Left to plant in the garden are some potatoes I picked up for new potatoes, a short row of green beans and a couple of rows of Gladiolas. The glads are for fresh cuttings; we cut them and put them in a galvanized bucket to place on the porch. The smaller stems get put into a bouquet and taken to my mother to brighten her house. Add a couple of dozen Brussels Sprouts plants and the garden is complete.
The first raised bed I made is about to yield its first crop of greens; what a treat after a winter's worth of supermarket greens. Another raised bed is getting devoted to onions and one more (I have yet to build), is going to be summer squash, zucchini and cucumbers. I've used sterile potting mix in the raised beds so far but I think I'll use a hefty amount of garden soil along with compost on the third one. I used potting mix to avoid the weed seed issues, but it's getting expensive.
At the farm this week we start our first of many transplanting jobs. This week onions, stock & snaps, and Chinese cabbage will go out. With the warmer than usual weather this spring, everything is bursting at the seams to get outside and get growing. Looks like cooler weather for the end of this week; more seasonable. Much of the ground prep has been accomplished and we're making beds and getting ready to start laying plastic. Most of the fertilizer has been spread and tilled in, 95% of the plowing has been done and what cover crops are left are growing rapidly before they get turned under. The turkeys are breeding; the males are strutting around like they're quite something. The tree swallows are building nests now; there's one outside my window looking in; must be wondering why I'm inside on a gorgeous day like today. Two of the greenhouses have received new plastic. One has received a new cement floor and the bench frames are in and put together. The bench tops - well - we're waiting for them. I hope they get here before we need them but I don't think so. Greenhouse 1 & 3 are filled to overflowing so we'll have to start using greenhouse 2 by the end of this week.
It's quite dry for this time of year; I am concerned it is going to be really dry this summer. After last year's rainy and damp summer, I'm already fussing about it being too dry. We'll just have to watch the weather and have all the irrigation equipment ready to go. We usually start irrigating the small seeded crops directly after we plant them; to give them optimum growing conditions and to prevent crusting of the soil while they germinate.
Until next week, enjoy the spring.
Brian
Saturday, May 1, 2010
JSS Advantage May 2010
Planting time has arrived, and the seedlings you grew so carefully inside, then hardened off gradually outside, are ready to go into the field or garden. Your goal is to keep them growing rapidly through the transition. That entails avoiding transplant shock, providing the right kind of fertilization, and having irrigation set up so you can water from Day 1.
The phrase "transplant shock" refers to the setback in growth that plants experience when moving from one environment to another or from having their roots damaged by a move. Transplant shock happens to all plants, but most vegetables are able to recover quickly if handled carefully. Here are some strategies for minimizing transplant shock in your seedlings:
Foliar feeding has many other reported applications: It can be used at flowering to increase fruit set. It is believed to make plants less sensitive to frost. Foliar sprays of compost tea help prevent plant diseases. And certain nutrient-related problems can be addressed by foliar sprays of the specific nutrient, such as calcium to prevent blossom end rot on tomatoes. More information on how to foliar feed...
The major pathway for nutrient uptake in fruits and vegetables is by the roots, so do not expect foliar feeding to supply all the nutrients needed. Remember the motto of sustainable farming is "Feed the soil, not the plant." Foliar feeding is a temporary measure for special situations, and should not replace cover cropping and soil amendments as recommended by regular soil tests.
Foliar fertilizers should be diluted so as not to burn the leaves. Fish emulsion and seaweed are the preferred foliar fertilizers for vegetables. Not only are they easy to dilute, they also contain micronutrients that are essential to plant health.
Apply a foliar fertilizer by a fine mist sprayer or nozzle. Spray to the point of run-off.
Mix the foliar feed solution in a clean sprayer. When you're done, run plenty of clean water through the sprayer to prevent clogging.
Foliar feed on a cloudy day (but not if rain is imminent), early in the morning or late in the afternoon, to avoid sun damage to the wet leaves. Do not foliar feed on hot days, as the heat can cause plants' stomata to close and prevent absorption of the nutrients.
If in doubt about the success of foliar feeding, use a refractometer. Take a sample before foliar feeding, and then a few minutes after foliar feeding. If the Brix has increased, the plant has taken up the nutrients.
Water-soluble fertilizers can be applied through an irrigation system, a process known as fertigation. Not only does fertigation save time, it also ensures a more even and effective distribution of fertilizer directly to the plants' roots. Like foliar feeding, fertigation can be used to quickly fortify plants that are under stress and unable to take up nutrients from the soil. More on fertigation...
Fertigation requires a system for injecting the fertilizer into irrigation water at the correct rate. The simplest solution is to use a Syphonject, which attaches between a garden hose and faucet and has a suction tube that is placed in a bucket of liquid fertilizer solution. The Syphonject draws up fertilizer and mixes it with water at a rate of 16:1. It is suitable for watering with a hose, but not with drip irrigation. For drip irrigation, a fertilizer injector is required.
Drip irrigation is the best way to water vegetables and cut flowers. It avoids wetting the foliage, which can lead to foliar diseases. It delivers water only to the crop, reducing the growth of weeds nearby. And it is the best water-conserving irrigation method, with little evaporation and no wind-blown water. Once a drip irrigation system is set up, irrigating is quick and easy.
A drip system consists of drip tubing, which has orifices at regular intervals that emit water onto the soil at the base of the plants. The water spreads across and down into the soil, creating a uniform band of moisture at root level. Water is emitted very slowly, so there is no runoff. Other components of a drip irrigation system include a filter for well water, to remove particulates that could clog the system, and fittings to connect multiple lines of drip tubing to a header line so that numerous beds can be watered at once.
Johnny's has drip irrigation kits, with everything needed for backyard or small market gardens. The components of the irrigation kits are also available individually for larger growers to set up more extensive systems.
The phrase "transplant shock" refers to the setback in growth that plants experience when moving from one environment to another or from having their roots damaged by a move. Transplant shock happens to all plants, but most vegetables are able to recover quickly if handled carefully. Here are some strategies for minimizing transplant shock in your seedlings:
- Transplant when your plants are the appropriate size. They should be planted out when they have enough roots to hold the root ball together so they come out of the plug flat easily, but before the roots start to circle or emerge from the bottom of the cell. Old transplants may have reached a reproductive rather than vegetative stage of growth, evidenced by flowering in the cell tray. They will produce earlier, but overall yield will be reduced. Getting them into the ground (if weather permits) before they flower will allow the roots to resume growth and keep them growing vegetatively for a while longer, resulting in stronger plants and better performance all season.
- Water plants thoroughly before taking them to the field. Don't let them dry out during planting! Keep the trays in the shade until you need them.
- Make planting holes, drop in the seedlings, and cover them up as quickly as possible to minimize the time the roots are exposed to air. The general rule is to cover the top of the root ball, to prevent the lighter growing medium around the roots from drying out. If your plants are in peat pots, be sure the top rim of the pot is covered with field soil to prevent the pot from wicking water away from the roots. As with any general rule, there are exceptions. For nightshade crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) the root ball can be buried a little deeper. These plants have the ability to develop adventitious roots from the stem, and by planting them slightly deeper this root formation is stimulated. The roots help to anchor the plant and prevent it from lodging (falling over due to the weight of the fruit). Conversely, lettuce and chicories (endive, escarole, and radicchio) are better planted so the top of the root ball is above the surrounding soil surface. This allows for better air circulation resulting in a reduced likelihood of bottom rot.
- Water the plants, either by hand or by running irrigation right away. Even if the soil is moist, transplants should still be watered in to settle them into their holes and increase the root-to-soil contact.
- Add a dilute water-soluble fertilizer to the watering-in solution. Do not use high-nitrogen fertilizers because they can burn the roots. A dilute, high-phosphorous fertilizer is preferable at transplant. We recommend Neptune's Harvest Fish Fertilizer (2-4-1), which is approved for certified-organic farms, or SeaCom PGR Seaweed Concentrate (0-4-4).
FOLIAR FEEDING
As young plants re-establish in the field or garden, they often have trouble taking up the nutrients they need from the soil. Soil conditions such as high pH, excess moisture, and cold temperatures also can make nutrients unavailable to plant roots. This is often exhibited by purpling or yellowing of the lower leaves on plants. When this occurs, foliar feeding spraying liquid fertilizer on the plants' leaves and stems may provide needed nutrients for a short period of time until the roots can resume nutrient uptake.Foliar feeding has many other reported applications: It can be used at flowering to increase fruit set. It is believed to make plants less sensitive to frost. Foliar sprays of compost tea help prevent plant diseases. And certain nutrient-related problems can be addressed by foliar sprays of the specific nutrient, such as calcium to prevent blossom end rot on tomatoes. More information on how to foliar feed...
The major pathway for nutrient uptake in fruits and vegetables is by the roots, so do not expect foliar feeding to supply all the nutrients needed. Remember the motto of sustainable farming is "Feed the soil, not the plant." Foliar feeding is a temporary measure for special situations, and should not replace cover cropping and soil amendments as recommended by regular soil tests.
Foliar fertilizers should be diluted so as not to burn the leaves. Fish emulsion and seaweed are the preferred foliar fertilizers for vegetables. Not only are they easy to dilute, they also contain micronutrients that are essential to plant health.
Apply a foliar fertilizer by a fine mist sprayer or nozzle. Spray to the point of run-off.
Mix the foliar feed solution in a clean sprayer. When you're done, run plenty of clean water through the sprayer to prevent clogging.
Foliar feed on a cloudy day (but not if rain is imminent), early in the morning or late in the afternoon, to avoid sun damage to the wet leaves. Do not foliar feed on hot days, as the heat can cause plants' stomata to close and prevent absorption of the nutrients.
If in doubt about the success of foliar feeding, use a refractometer. Take a sample before foliar feeding, and then a few minutes after foliar feeding. If the Brix has increased, the plant has taken up the nutrients.
Water-soluble fertilizers can be applied through an irrigation system, a process known as fertigation. Not only does fertigation save time, it also ensures a more even and effective distribution of fertilizer directly to the plants' roots. Like foliar feeding, fertigation can be used to quickly fortify plants that are under stress and unable to take up nutrients from the soil. More on fertigation...
Fertigation requires a system for injecting the fertilizer into irrigation water at the correct rate. The simplest solution is to use a Syphonject, which attaches between a garden hose and faucet and has a suction tube that is placed in a bucket of liquid fertilizer solution. The Syphonject draws up fertilizer and mixes it with water at a rate of 16:1. It is suitable for watering with a hose, but not with drip irrigation. For drip irrigation, a fertilizer injector is required.
IRRIGATION
Drip irrigation is the best way to water vegetables and cut flowers. It avoids wetting the foliage, which can lead to foliar diseases. It delivers water only to the crop, reducing the growth of weeds nearby. And it is the best water-conserving irrigation method, with little evaporation and no wind-blown water. Once a drip irrigation system is set up, irrigating is quick and easy.
A drip system consists of drip tubing, which has orifices at regular intervals that emit water onto the soil at the base of the plants. The water spreads across and down into the soil, creating a uniform band of moisture at root level. Water is emitted very slowly, so there is no runoff. Other components of a drip irrigation system include a filter for well water, to remove particulates that could clog the system, and fittings to connect multiple lines of drip tubing to a header line so that numerous beds can be watered at once.
Johnny's has drip irrigation kits, with everything needed for backyard or small market gardens. The components of the irrigation kits are also available individually for larger growers to set up more extensive systems.
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
What's New At The Farm? 4/28/10
The fact that April is nearly over is new.
Things all around us are noticeably early this year. The leaves are out two to three weeks earlier, the fiddleheads are coming fast and the blackflies are out in force.
Dandelions are starting to bloom; there are some dandy ones in the garden right now. Growing up on a farm in central Maine we had many dishes of steamed dandelions. My father would go out and get them and my mother would clean and cook them, and we'd all eat them. Mother always said cleaning them was the hard part. The best ones came from the garden just before we plowed it down or along the edges of the cornfields. Big and bushy, harvested before the blossoms opened up, and steamed with ample amounts of creamery butter and salt; can't beat that! My folks harvested, cleaned, blanched and froze dandelions for eating all winter well into their eighties; perhaps dandelions contributed to their longevity.
The key to harvesting flavorful (notice I didn't say bitter) dandelions is to get them before they blossom. The blossoms can be picked and deep fried with a batter coating much like you'd do onion rings. I think cooking them like this takes away the bitterness often associated with blooming dandelions.
You would think living out here we would have eaten fiddleheads as well as dandelions. Well, in a word, no. I never ate fiddleheads until about ten years ago. Peggy and I were at camp and went for a walk up along a nearby stream where we found a small patch of them. We picked maybe a half a pound, washed them in the stream, took them back to camp and steamed them for supper; delicious! Of course, like everything, fresh is always best. We went to camp this past Sunday and picked about two gallons of them; we'll have some freshly steamed, again with salt and butter, and we'll pickle the rest. Never heard of pickling fiddleheads? It's as easy as it gets.
Washing in clean water is just as important as picking them in unpolluted areas. We wash the fiddleheads to get all the brown papery husks off the fern heads three or four times in potable water, cook them until done (not overdone), then pack then into pint jars. Once packed we pour Italian dressing to cover the fiddleheads, screw a top on and refrigerate until we want to eat them. We've taken them ice fishing a good ten months after we processed them and they were fine. The only issue is that they take up refrigerator space until they're used, oh well. There's stuff in the fridge that isn't nearly as important as the pickled fiddleheads so I guess we can make some room.
On the farm this week, we are working in the greenhouses "bumping up" seedlings and doing some field work as well. This year finds us working the fields about two to three weeks earlier than normal, but it will give us a chance to get ahead a bit in case something happens. We could get 3 weeks of rain, so it's better to get some field prep done well ahead of schedule. Most of the fields have been plowed and many have been fertilized, so now we move on to making beds and laying plastic.
The wildlife report this week includes a couple of pairs of Canada geese hanging out at the irrigation pond, lots of swallows using the bird houses I put out and a large yellow spotted salamander. I went home for lunch today and I spotted a large (6") yellow spotted salamander near the compost pile. He looked pretty cold and wasn't moving, but was still alive, so I moved him into a covered area of the compost pile. As it rained this morning he was probably headed to the pond to breed but was surprised at the cold temps. Probably another case of "it feels like spring but the calendar says it's still April." Spotted salamanders are quite common but seldom seen during the day as they are nocturnal hunters and hide under logs and in leaves during the days.
Until next week, Brian
Things all around us are noticeably early this year. The leaves are out two to three weeks earlier, the fiddleheads are coming fast and the blackflies are out in force.
Dandelions are starting to bloom; there are some dandy ones in the garden right now. Growing up on a farm in central Maine we had many dishes of steamed dandelions. My father would go out and get them and my mother would clean and cook them, and we'd all eat them. Mother always said cleaning them was the hard part. The best ones came from the garden just before we plowed it down or along the edges of the cornfields. Big and bushy, harvested before the blossoms opened up, and steamed with ample amounts of creamery butter and salt; can't beat that! My folks harvested, cleaned, blanched and froze dandelions for eating all winter well into their eighties; perhaps dandelions contributed to their longevity.
The key to harvesting flavorful (notice I didn't say bitter) dandelions is to get them before they blossom. The blossoms can be picked and deep fried with a batter coating much like you'd do onion rings. I think cooking them like this takes away the bitterness often associated with blooming dandelions.
You would think living out here we would have eaten fiddleheads as well as dandelions. Well, in a word, no. I never ate fiddleheads until about ten years ago. Peggy and I were at camp and went for a walk up along a nearby stream where we found a small patch of them. We picked maybe a half a pound, washed them in the stream, took them back to camp and steamed them for supper; delicious! Of course, like everything, fresh is always best. We went to camp this past Sunday and picked about two gallons of them; we'll have some freshly steamed, again with salt and butter, and we'll pickle the rest. Never heard of pickling fiddleheads? It's as easy as it gets.
Washing in clean water is just as important as picking them in unpolluted areas. We wash the fiddleheads to get all the brown papery husks off the fern heads three or four times in potable water, cook them until done (not overdone), then pack then into pint jars. Once packed we pour Italian dressing to cover the fiddleheads, screw a top on and refrigerate until we want to eat them. We've taken them ice fishing a good ten months after we processed them and they were fine. The only issue is that they take up refrigerator space until they're used, oh well. There's stuff in the fridge that isn't nearly as important as the pickled fiddleheads so I guess we can make some room.
On the farm this week, we are working in the greenhouses "bumping up" seedlings and doing some field work as well. This year finds us working the fields about two to three weeks earlier than normal, but it will give us a chance to get ahead a bit in case something happens. We could get 3 weeks of rain, so it's better to get some field prep done well ahead of schedule. Most of the fields have been plowed and many have been fertilized, so now we move on to making beds and laying plastic.
The wildlife report this week includes a couple of pairs of Canada geese hanging out at the irrigation pond, lots of swallows using the bird houses I put out and a large yellow spotted salamander. I went home for lunch today and I spotted a large (6") yellow spotted salamander near the compost pile. He looked pretty cold and wasn't moving, but was still alive, so I moved him into a covered area of the compost pile. As it rained this morning he was probably headed to the pond to breed but was surprised at the cold temps. Probably another case of "it feels like spring but the calendar says it's still April." Spotted salamanders are quite common but seldom seen during the day as they are nocturnal hunters and hide under logs and in leaves during the days.
Until next week, Brian
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Pest of the week: Striped Cucumber Beetle
Striped Cucumber Beetle (Acalymma vittatum) transmits Bacterial Wilt (Erwinia tracheiphila)
Life Cycle: Adults overwinter in leaf litter and soil, emerging in spring. Young cucurbit plants are especially susceptible to large numbers of adults feeding. This activity can reduce yields and sometimes kill seedlings. Adult females lay eggs near the base of the cucurbit plants. Larvae hatch from eggs to feed on plant roots, pupate, and emerge as adults after about 3 weeks. Emergence usually occurs in late summer and feeding begins on plants and maturing fruits. Feeding damage can make fruit unmarketable. Adult beetles can transmit Bacterial Wilt through feeding on plants. Bacterial Wilt can cause plant decline, reduced yields, and possible plant death.
Plants affected: All cucurbits are susceptible to cucumber beetle damage. The Spotted Cucumber beetle also feeds on corn, asparagus, and eggplant. Young seedlings and maturing fruit are most affected by feeding damage. Cucumbers and melons are more susceptible to bacterial wilt than squash and pumpkins. Young, vigorously growing plants are more susceptible to bacterial wilt.
Control: Spray or dip seedlings with Surround WP (#9661) to deter insect attack. Reapply if it rains or as the plant grows out of the spray. Use a preventative application of Pyganic (#9192/#9532) and then use Entrust (#9068) for the next application, switching between the two for maximum knockdown potential. Use Rotenone-Pyrethrin Concentrate (#9336) as a control. Place sticky traps at plant height to monitor populations. Use pheromone lures inside the sticky trap to attract cucumber beetles away from plants and trap them on the sticky trap.
Resources:
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/factsheets/Cucurbit_Beetles.htm
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/bugreview/cucumberbeetle.cfm
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Product spotlight, May 2010
Mulch
Johnny's has a mulch for every application. All mulches provide inexpensive weed control, and some offer other benefits such as increasing yields and repelling insects. Here's a product comparison chart that will help you find the best mulch for your situation; complete details are in the catalog and at johnnyseeds.com.Direct-seeded flowers
Many flowers can be direct seeded now for blooms this summer. Ammi, Bells of Ireland, Bupleurum, Calendula, Carthamus, Cosmos, Euphorbia, Larkspur, Nigella,
Calendula 'Flashback' offers a wide range of colors, and all have stunning red and burgundy hues on the underside of the petals that gives this variety an intriguing appearance. Available as a mix or in separate color families.
'Solar Flashback' is pink with yellow petal tips; 'Triangle Flashback' is a pastel peach-pink; 'Antares Flashback' includes orange, peach, apricot, yellow, and cream; 'Sunshine Flashback' is a rich orange.
'Katrina' and 'Sultan' cucumbers
Seedless cucumbers are the most popular types for fresh eating, and Johnny's has all the best varieties.New this year for greenhouse or hoophouse production is 'Katrina', which produces an early to midseason crop. It is best when picked at about 6" long, and has a sweet flavor and crisp texture. Organic seed.
What's New At The Farm? 4/21/10
Busy, busy, busy.
Now that the weather has warmed up and perhaps straightened out for a while we can get some field work done. We've completed some projects around the farm that needed to be done before we start in the fields this spring. Always fun jobs including trimming trees and bushes around the fence, picking up strips of plastic in the fields that got missed last fall and modifying the poly tunnel so more light gets in. Other projects done are the raking, cleaning up piles of road sand and cleaning out the flower beds.
The cement has been poured in greenhouse # 2 and is set up. In a couple of days the contractors will come in and do some final work and then that will be ready for the new benches. It will be a real greenhouse then. New concrete and new benches and it will be a real pleasure to work in this house. Now I'll take aim of Greenhouse 1 next. This house we built around 1990 and we are thinking about replacing it or at least pouring concrete and installing new benches; something to think about for next spring for sure.
The wildlife report this week includes the heron I mentioned last week. Actually on my way to work on Thursday last week I spied one heading south; perhaps he knows something I don't. Other than that, the fiddleheads are up - early this year, the White suckers are spawning and the alewives are start their spring migration. Turkey vultures are showing up; cleaning up what died in the winter and what got hit in the road this spring. Tree swallows are back but I haven't seen the barn swallows yet. Black flies are out but not too bad right now.
On the home front we have two ducks sitting on nests; one Muscovy and one Call. Each has ~ 12 eggs, so we should have plenty of ducklings. I bought a dozen day old ducklings two weeks ago and have 41 in the incubator. I think soon ducks will outnumber chickens. The guineas aren't laying this year; I think we lost our only male last year and they're not interested in laying. My summer projects include a couple of "summer cottages" for the ducks; seasonal use with a nice view. Broilers due Thursday or Friday this week to further fill up the henhouse.
Back to the farm: Planting in the greenhouse continues with Greenhouse 3 rapidly filling up. We've moved some peppers to GH # 1 as the electrical load from many heat mats was causing breakers to trip. Not something you want to happen over the weekend when no one is really here.
I expect much field work will commence in the next ten days to two weeks. It is nearly dry enough to work all but the lowest fields so we should be good to go. We've got 200 yards of compost and 31,000 pounds dehydrated chicken manure to spread and work into the ground in the upcoming weeks. Much of our time will be spent spreading and incorporating these fertilizers to prepare for planting. We've got 47 acres to prepare this year; both for crops and for rotation plantings, so I guess we'd better get busy.
Until next week, Brian
Now that the weather has warmed up and perhaps straightened out for a while we can get some field work done. We've completed some projects around the farm that needed to be done before we start in the fields this spring. Always fun jobs including trimming trees and bushes around the fence, picking up strips of plastic in the fields that got missed last fall and modifying the poly tunnel so more light gets in. Other projects done are the raking, cleaning up piles of road sand and cleaning out the flower beds.
The cement has been poured in greenhouse # 2 and is set up. In a couple of days the contractors will come in and do some final work and then that will be ready for the new benches. It will be a real greenhouse then. New concrete and new benches and it will be a real pleasure to work in this house. Now I'll take aim of Greenhouse 1 next. This house we built around 1990 and we are thinking about replacing it or at least pouring concrete and installing new benches; something to think about for next spring for sure.
The wildlife report this week includes the heron I mentioned last week. Actually on my way to work on Thursday last week I spied one heading south; perhaps he knows something I don't. Other than that, the fiddleheads are up - early this year, the White suckers are spawning and the alewives are start their spring migration. Turkey vultures are showing up; cleaning up what died in the winter and what got hit in the road this spring. Tree swallows are back but I haven't seen the barn swallows yet. Black flies are out but not too bad right now.
On the home front we have two ducks sitting on nests; one Muscovy and one Call. Each has ~ 12 eggs, so we should have plenty of ducklings. I bought a dozen day old ducklings two weeks ago and have 41 in the incubator. I think soon ducks will outnumber chickens. The guineas aren't laying this year; I think we lost our only male last year and they're not interested in laying. My summer projects include a couple of "summer cottages" for the ducks; seasonal use with a nice view. Broilers due Thursday or Friday this week to further fill up the henhouse.
Back to the farm: Planting in the greenhouse continues with Greenhouse 3 rapidly filling up. We've moved some peppers to GH # 1 as the electrical load from many heat mats was causing breakers to trip. Not something you want to happen over the weekend when no one is really here.
I expect much field work will commence in the next ten days to two weeks. It is nearly dry enough to work all but the lowest fields so we should be good to go. We've got 200 yards of compost and 31,000 pounds dehydrated chicken manure to spread and work into the ground in the upcoming weeks. Much of our time will be spent spreading and incorporating these fertilizers to prepare for planting. We've got 47 acres to prepare this year; both for crops and for rotation plantings, so I guess we'd better get busy.
Until next week, Brian
Monday, April 19, 2010
What's New At The Farm? 4/14/10
I would say that the bulk of the migrating birds are back now. The wildlife report this week includes tree swallows, turtles and abundant woodchucks. The grass is growing furiously and the Canadian geese are taking full advantage of it. Lots of ducks around and I'm sure any day I'll spot some herons. Ospreys are wheeling overhead at the house as they're building a nest near the pond behind the house. Every time they fly over the hens duck for cover thinking it's going to take them away.
The swallows are back and I've got to hustle getting the new birdhouses up. They're back earlier than I remember so they caught me unaware. I built new houses last year which I take down in the fall and store undercover to prolong their life, but I need to get them out as early as I can get out there, especially in a spring like this one. That will be a "fun" project I can do when I'm thoroughly tired of working at my desk.
It's hard not to rush the season now. The grass and cover crops are greening up, the lawns are about to be mowed and many people want to get into the gardens and plant. The unusually warm weather of the past couple of months have got us to believing spring arrived early this year. A long and hard look at the calendar and, yes, it's still very early spring. I think planting lettuce, onions and probably peas would be safe now but I'd hold off on the plants that like it warmer. I planted my raised bed last night with lettuce, radishes, greens and carrots. The raised bed is 4 X 8 and about a foot deep, filled with a greenhouse potting medium. I installed plastic pipe hoops so I can cover it with row covers to keep the insects and ducks out and the heat in. I'm anxious for some fresh radishes and greens.
I think I'll build another raised bed and put sweet onions in it for use this summer. And another one for summer squash, cukes and zukes. Building and filling two more should keep me busy this spring along with everything else I have going on. Let's see, I have more work to do on my boat, finish painting the windows in the henhouse, ducklings are due in just under a month, baby chicks due in ten days, and the chicks and ducklings I already have need to be tended twice daily still. Seems she let me go to the farm supply store without her last week; she should know better, as I came home with 12 Pekin ducklings.
And there's always the garden: 15 blueberry bushed ordered, but I have a plan. I'm going to take the outside bed of the garden, 150 feet long, and turn that into perennial fruits. They'll be 15+ blueberry bushes, a new asparagus patch, a new rhubarb patch and a patch that I can move my horseradish into. That will leave me with some room at the ends or the bed; I think I'll put in something the bees and beneficials like. I've got a couple of Canadian Gem lilac trees I need to move; perhaps I'll put them there.
Preparing the garden soil for planting all of the above takes a fair amount of work and expense. First a soil test with the labs' recommendations as to what to add for the various crops. Then I add compost and other soil amendments as needed. Then I rototill and install ground cover where applicable. Then I dig the planting holes and mix the soil with peat moss or compost for the pants. Then I plant. Then I water and place generous amount of mulch around the plants. Then I keep the strip watered all summer and weed free. Well, I'm tired now. All that work! My point?
My point is that now I've done everything right, made this land into a patch with optimum conditions for the plants I'm going to plant, then plant the best plants I can find. And where do I find the best plants; well, right here where I work; Johnny's. There's no point in doing all this work to plant "cheap" and/or marginal plants - plant the best. It's like the old saying: you get what you pay for. I'm not spending this time and money just to plant plants; I want to harvest fruits and shoots for years to come. I want to eliminate as many weeds as I can while providing the best growing condition for the plants I have chosen.
As Farm Manager at Johnny's I should have a really nice looking and productive garden, although I am reminded of a saying, something about the cobbler's kids having worn out shoes.
Until next week, Brian.
The swallows are back and I've got to hustle getting the new birdhouses up. They're back earlier than I remember so they caught me unaware. I built new houses last year which I take down in the fall and store undercover to prolong their life, but I need to get them out as early as I can get out there, especially in a spring like this one. That will be a "fun" project I can do when I'm thoroughly tired of working at my desk.
It's hard not to rush the season now. The grass and cover crops are greening up, the lawns are about to be mowed and many people want to get into the gardens and plant. The unusually warm weather of the past couple of months have got us to believing spring arrived early this year. A long and hard look at the calendar and, yes, it's still very early spring. I think planting lettuce, onions and probably peas would be safe now but I'd hold off on the plants that like it warmer. I planted my raised bed last night with lettuce, radishes, greens and carrots. The raised bed is 4 X 8 and about a foot deep, filled with a greenhouse potting medium. I installed plastic pipe hoops so I can cover it with row covers to keep the insects and ducks out and the heat in. I'm anxious for some fresh radishes and greens.
I think I'll build another raised bed and put sweet onions in it for use this summer. And another one for summer squash, cukes and zukes. Building and filling two more should keep me busy this spring along with everything else I have going on. Let's see, I have more work to do on my boat, finish painting the windows in the henhouse, ducklings are due in just under a month, baby chicks due in ten days, and the chicks and ducklings I already have need to be tended twice daily still. Seems she let me go to the farm supply store without her last week; she should know better, as I came home with 12 Pekin ducklings.
And there's always the garden: 15 blueberry bushed ordered, but I have a plan. I'm going to take the outside bed of the garden, 150 feet long, and turn that into perennial fruits. They'll be 15+ blueberry bushes, a new asparagus patch, a new rhubarb patch and a patch that I can move my horseradish into. That will leave me with some room at the ends or the bed; I think I'll put in something the bees and beneficials like. I've got a couple of Canadian Gem lilac trees I need to move; perhaps I'll put them there.
Preparing the garden soil for planting all of the above takes a fair amount of work and expense. First a soil test with the labs' recommendations as to what to add for the various crops. Then I add compost and other soil amendments as needed. Then I rototill and install ground cover where applicable. Then I dig the planting holes and mix the soil with peat moss or compost for the pants. Then I plant. Then I water and place generous amount of mulch around the plants. Then I keep the strip watered all summer and weed free. Well, I'm tired now. All that work! My point?
My point is that now I've done everything right, made this land into a patch with optimum conditions for the plants I'm going to plant, then plant the best plants I can find. And where do I find the best plants; well, right here where I work; Johnny's. There's no point in doing all this work to plant "cheap" and/or marginal plants - plant the best. It's like the old saying: you get what you pay for. I'm not spending this time and money just to plant plants; I want to harvest fruits and shoots for years to come. I want to eliminate as many weeds as I can while providing the best growing condition for the plants I have chosen.
As Farm Manager at Johnny's I should have a really nice looking and productive garden, although I am reminded of a saying, something about the cobbler's kids having worn out shoes.
Until next week, Brian.
Friday, April 16, 2010
Photos from the Quick Hoops trial
Quick Hoops Trial
Peas! Here’s a crop that you wouldn’t think you could grow in this system, but here they are. They were direct-seeded and the seeds remained dormant until spring.
Yum: This lettuce is ready to eat.
A couple things to note: Very little browning of the dormant leaves, like we saw with the Arugula; and most importantly, almost all of the varieties did well! Pretty cool.
Voila! Fresh greens in April thanks to Quick Hoops.
An artichoke peeks up through the ground after overwintering successfully under straw and a low tunnel.
Plenty of Arugula and plenty of weeds that need to be dealt with.
From L to R: Flashy Trout Back, Encore Lettuce Mix, and Spectrum Greens Mix. All direct-seeded in November. An example of a crop that was seeded after it was too cold to germinate and the seeds remained dormant until spring.
Flashy Trout Back lettuce: It's one of our prettiest lettuces. Described in our catalog as festive confetti in a salad bowl.
We held our first ‘Crop Walk’ of the year. Crop Walk is a weekly gathering of Johnny's Selected Seeds customer service reps, marketing, purchasing, operations people, and anyone else in the company who has an interest at our trial farm in Albion.
It is a time for Product Management to show off the trials and new products they are working on and also to educate on field prep techniques and pest and disease controls. This week, we featured our Quick Hoops Trial, which was a collaborative effort among product management.
Over the course of the winter, we have gained some valuable insight into the fine tuning of equipment and techniques needed to make season extension and overwintering possible in these rigid low tunnels. We also have obtained some very good data as to which varieties will work best in this application.
Learn more about Johnny's Selected Seeds Quick Hoops products and season extension, including the federal government's high tunnel pilot program.
Monday, April 12, 2010
Lessons learned from mud season
Growers anxious to plant in the spring should be aware that the first narrow window of opportunity results when the soil defrosts completely ("unthaws" in the Maine vernacular). This occurs from the top down because of wind and warming temperatures, and from the bottom up as heat from the earth's core exerts its subtle influence. At some point, the entire soil profile is once again porous and able to facilitate drainage of rain and snowmelt. Although somewhat counter-intuitive, years with deep snow cover and little frost result in an early spring, while "open winters" with little snow and frigid temperatures drive the frost deeper into the ground and resulting in a later start.
This initial drying out has often occurred on or around Earth, Day April 22nd in central Maine. The soil may be plowed or tilled for early plantings of spinach, peas, lettuce, and frost hardy transplants. This planting period may last only a few days, before spring rains return to saturate the soil structure once again. Growers whose equipment is in disrepair, or who do not have their seeds in hand, may be forced to wait weeks for their soil to return to this workable state. With this in mind, gardening book authors universally recommend that new gardens be located on "well-drained, sandy loam".
When I first began farming, I was faced with a steep learning curve. I had no personal farming experience, nor had I grown up in a farming family.
"Back to the land" was an appropriate moniker for the first five years of my tenure in Maine, as I struggled to grow the vegetables needed by an extended family living on a hillside farm. As my vegetable growing ambitions grew, I acquired a succession of various obsolete farm tractors and related equipment.
Learning to navigate these relics over the fields proved quite a challenge, and one especially wet spring my farming neighbor and I staged an impromptu mud run.
Neither of us had the maturity, experience, or patience to wait a few more days to begin working our fields. We had bolted together our aging equipment while the last snow flurries fell, filled our greenhouses to overflowing with seedlings planted on an optimistic timetable, and agonized as deep frosts delayed the drainage of our soggy fields. When the sunny skies and warm breezes tempted us beyond endurance, we fuelled our respective mounts in the dooryard and wheeled out to the edge of the fields. I was trying to work some ground near the barn and he was attempting to plow open a field on his land just across the stream.
In the sorry spectacle that followed, plowing progressed only by fits and starts. Mostly there was a series of shrieks, moans, and hollers from the tractors as they floundered in the mud and curses accompanied by the clank of shovels as we dug out the tires and placed rocks and boards to return them to the surface.
Periodically, when shoveling failed, one of us would walk across the stream to ask the other to bring a chain and tow the second tractor out of the mire. As the morning passed, several epic rounds of towing had occurred, but precious little that resembled plowing. Finally, as I shoveled the mud off my boots to begin the walk across the bridge for yet another tow, my heart sank.
There in the distance was my neighbor wearily climbing the bank to the road to summon me. When we met at the bridge over the small stream it was confirmed that both our tractors were now sunk in the mud. Calculating the number of weeks it would require to till our small plots at the rate we were going, we were forced to admit that we were no match for mud season. Over the past three decades I have spent part of every spring preparing the earth to garden. And I have never forgot that early spring, when mud season taught me that there's a time for every purpose under heaven!
This initial drying out has often occurred on or around Earth, Day April 22nd in central Maine. The soil may be plowed or tilled for early plantings of spinach, peas, lettuce, and frost hardy transplants. This planting period may last only a few days, before spring rains return to saturate the soil structure once again. Growers whose equipment is in disrepair, or who do not have their seeds in hand, may be forced to wait weeks for their soil to return to this workable state. With this in mind, gardening book authors universally recommend that new gardens be located on "well-drained, sandy loam".
When I first began farming, I was faced with a steep learning curve. I had no personal farming experience, nor had I grown up in a farming family.
"Back to the land" was an appropriate moniker for the first five years of my tenure in Maine, as I struggled to grow the vegetables needed by an extended family living on a hillside farm. As my vegetable growing ambitions grew, I acquired a succession of various obsolete farm tractors and related equipment.
Learning to navigate these relics over the fields proved quite a challenge, and one especially wet spring my farming neighbor and I staged an impromptu mud run.
Neither of us had the maturity, experience, or patience to wait a few more days to begin working our fields. We had bolted together our aging equipment while the last snow flurries fell, filled our greenhouses to overflowing with seedlings planted on an optimistic timetable, and agonized as deep frosts delayed the drainage of our soggy fields. When the sunny skies and warm breezes tempted us beyond endurance, we fuelled our respective mounts in the dooryard and wheeled out to the edge of the fields. I was trying to work some ground near the barn and he was attempting to plow open a field on his land just across the stream.
In the sorry spectacle that followed, plowing progressed only by fits and starts. Mostly there was a series of shrieks, moans, and hollers from the tractors as they floundered in the mud and curses accompanied by the clank of shovels as we dug out the tires and placed rocks and boards to return them to the surface.
Periodically, when shoveling failed, one of us would walk across the stream to ask the other to bring a chain and tow the second tractor out of the mire. As the morning passed, several epic rounds of towing had occurred, but precious little that resembled plowing. Finally, as I shoveled the mud off my boots to begin the walk across the bridge for yet another tow, my heart sank.
There in the distance was my neighbor wearily climbing the bank to the road to summon me. When we met at the bridge over the small stream it was confirmed that both our tractors were now sunk in the mud. Calculating the number of weeks it would require to till our small plots at the rate we were going, we were forced to admit that we were no match for mud season. Over the past three decades I have spent part of every spring preparing the earth to garden. And I have never forgot that early spring, when mud season taught me that there's a time for every purpose under heaven!
Ben Wilcox
Thursday, April 8, 2010
What's New At The Farm? 4/07/10
April, that's what's new! I think I said that last week; a day early but only because we're so anxious to get into warmer weather and into the planting season.
Signs of spring abound. This past weekend saw the first Phoebe, Osprey, painted turtle, bat and daffodils in bloom. I've heard southern spots have fiddle heads poking up! The forsythia is in full bloom and the buds on the lilacs are swelling. Lots of dandelions around and the geese are enjoying grazing on the fresh grass. It looks like spring is truly here. I saw a swallow on Monday too.
Speaking of spring, along with spring comes the ever popular mosquitoes. I've had them in my workshop for the past month or so and now they seem to be out and about. While usually not present in large numbers, they can turn an afternoon outside into something less than perfect. To control insects we must understand their life cycle.
There are three major species of mosquitoes in North America: Celex, Aedes and Anopheles. Aedes are associated with flood waters or periods of heavy rain. Humans are their preferred food; we saw them last summer with all the rain we had here. Anopheles are the Malaria mosquito; they prefer clean, fresh water. And finally the Celex mosquitoes are the ones found in standing water in places like old tires and bird baths.
Besides being a nuisance, mosquitoes carry a host of diseases including West Nile, encephalitis, malaria and dog heartworm. According to most information I have read, if you don't want to get a disease from them don't get bit by them. No kidding. Actually the chances of getting a diseases from a mosquito bite, and developing serious health issues are pretty rare. In other parts of the world it is much more common. That said, no one wants to be chewed by them when sitting out on the lawn in the evening; now that it's actually warm enough to sit out.
Our house is located right next to a farm pond and a swamp (wetland). We have a sitting area out at the south end of our pond where we spend much time in the snowless seasons. Mosquitoes are at their peak around eight in the evening for about an hour. They can drive us into the house at certain times.
I am a firm believer in having a smudge going to discourage them, whether it actually does any good or not. I am also a firm believer in not spraying pesticides all over the yard. Pesticides usually kill a broad spectrum of insects and I'd rather not kill everything. So, what to do?
There are things we can do to reduce the mosquito population that are just easy, common sense things.
Until next week, enjoy the spring before the blackflies come out.
Brian
Signs of spring abound. This past weekend saw the first Phoebe, Osprey, painted turtle, bat and daffodils in bloom. I've heard southern spots have fiddle heads poking up! The forsythia is in full bloom and the buds on the lilacs are swelling. Lots of dandelions around and the geese are enjoying grazing on the fresh grass. It looks like spring is truly here. I saw a swallow on Monday too.
Speaking of spring, along with spring comes the ever popular mosquitoes. I've had them in my workshop for the past month or so and now they seem to be out and about. While usually not present in large numbers, they can turn an afternoon outside into something less than perfect. To control insects we must understand their life cycle.
There are three major species of mosquitoes in North America: Celex, Aedes and Anopheles. Aedes are associated with flood waters or periods of heavy rain. Humans are their preferred food; we saw them last summer with all the rain we had here. Anopheles are the Malaria mosquito; they prefer clean, fresh water. And finally the Celex mosquitoes are the ones found in standing water in places like old tires and bird baths.
Besides being a nuisance, mosquitoes carry a host of diseases including West Nile, encephalitis, malaria and dog heartworm. According to most information I have read, if you don't want to get a disease from them don't get bit by them. No kidding. Actually the chances of getting a diseases from a mosquito bite, and developing serious health issues are pretty rare. In other parts of the world it is much more common. That said, no one wants to be chewed by them when sitting out on the lawn in the evening; now that it's actually warm enough to sit out.
Our house is located right next to a farm pond and a swamp (wetland). We have a sitting area out at the south end of our pond where we spend much time in the snowless seasons. Mosquitoes are at their peak around eight in the evening for about an hour. They can drive us into the house at certain times.
I am a firm believer in having a smudge going to discourage them, whether it actually does any good or not. I am also a firm believer in not spraying pesticides all over the yard. Pesticides usually kill a broad spectrum of insects and I'd rather not kill everything. So, what to do?
There are things we can do to reduce the mosquito population that are just easy, common sense things.
- If you have a pond like we do, stock it with some type of minnows. We have golden shiners in ours. Many small fish consider mosquito larvae (commonly called wrigglers) delicacies and make a tasty meal of them. We used to collect the wrigglers and feed them to our aquarium fish; I forget the species at this time, any fish that likes brine shrimp will normally eat wrigglers. Our shiners eat wrigglers, provide food for the larger fish in there and I can take some out for use as bait.
- Get rid of anything that holds water, or make the water unsuitable for reproduction. For example a bird bath, don't get rid of it; the birds need it. Instead add a bubbler or a small recirculating pump so the water doesn't stand still. Or add a larger container for water over the bath that drips. This will discourage the adults from laying eggs there and also attract the birds.
- Although birds and bats don't eat that many mosquitoes, encourage them to share your yard and garden. Natural predators include bats, birds, dragonflies, frogs and toads, and just about anything that can catch them.
- If you have bulrushes and/or cattails growing around, leave them. They provide hiding and resting places for dragonflies and other mosquito eating insects. Put a few bird houses up and enjoy the birds.
- And finally, if you can, add some ducks to your flock. You'd think I was a duck salesman but honestly Muscovy ducks will hunt mosquitoes both as ducklings and as adults. The young ducklings will spend their day chasing mosquitoes around and the adults will catch them as well. Besides they're fun to watch.
Until next week, enjoy the spring before the blackflies come out.
Brian
Thursday, April 1, 2010
What's New At The Farm? 4/01/10
Welcome to April!
With all the rain we've had this week I thought today would be a good time to talk about cover crops, organic matter and preventing erosion. We've had a pounding rain for two days this week, and I'm glad we got as much ground covered as we do. The very nature of how we use the land for the production of crops leads to potential erosion issues every time we have heavy rains. A "gully washer" can wreak havoc with topsoils in the middle of the summer. A thundershower often has torrential but brief downpours which also can lead to significant erosion. Sometimes dry soils will resist a heavy and fast application of water and that's when erosion can happen quickly and without warning.
So, what's the big deal about erosion? Erosion takes place in nature all by itself. Ever wonder why the rockiest soil is on the ridge tops while the deepest soils are in the valleys? The rain has washed the soil down off the hill for hundreds or thousands of years. Small soil particles move easier than large ones so the rocks are left and the soil is moved. This moving usually moves the same amount of materials that is made up new each year.
In an agricultural setting erosion speeds the loss of topsoil at an alarming rate. Topsoil is necessary for plant growth; without it you have nothing. It takes nature 100 years to deposit an inch of topsoil and that can be lost in one season or less. Agriculture disturbs the organic materials left on the surface by living, dying and rotting plant materials and exposes it to the ravages of the weather. A heavy rain is all it takes to wash the soil away. Land must be managed to achieve maximum crop yields while keeping and improving the makeup of our precious topsoil.
Crop land often removes plant roots that hold the soil in place. A crop of grass holds soil much better than a crop of carrots, but there must be middle ground somewhere. We need our crops but we need to preserve our soils to grow them; a circle indeed; one step relying on the others. So, in order to prevent losing our topsoil and preserving it for future generations, we need to develop a plan to enrich, preserve and maintain biological diversity in our soils.
Ways to prevent erosion:
Simple, common sense ways to keep our soils where they should be. Don't think that because you have a small plot that erosion control isn't important; it is. Everyone who works the soil shares the responsibility to preserve it for the generations that are yet to come.
Until next week, Brian
With all the rain we've had this week I thought today would be a good time to talk about cover crops, organic matter and preventing erosion. We've had a pounding rain for two days this week, and I'm glad we got as much ground covered as we do. The very nature of how we use the land for the production of crops leads to potential erosion issues every time we have heavy rains. A "gully washer" can wreak havoc with topsoils in the middle of the summer. A thundershower often has torrential but brief downpours which also can lead to significant erosion. Sometimes dry soils will resist a heavy and fast application of water and that's when erosion can happen quickly and without warning.
So, what's the big deal about erosion? Erosion takes place in nature all by itself. Ever wonder why the rockiest soil is on the ridge tops while the deepest soils are in the valleys? The rain has washed the soil down off the hill for hundreds or thousands of years. Small soil particles move easier than large ones so the rocks are left and the soil is moved. This moving usually moves the same amount of materials that is made up new each year.
In an agricultural setting erosion speeds the loss of topsoil at an alarming rate. Topsoil is necessary for plant growth; without it you have nothing. It takes nature 100 years to deposit an inch of topsoil and that can be lost in one season or less. Agriculture disturbs the organic materials left on the surface by living, dying and rotting plant materials and exposes it to the ravages of the weather. A heavy rain is all it takes to wash the soil away. Land must be managed to achieve maximum crop yields while keeping and improving the makeup of our precious topsoil.
Crop land often removes plant roots that hold the soil in place. A crop of grass holds soil much better than a crop of carrots, but there must be middle ground somewhere. We need our crops but we need to preserve our soils to grow them; a circle indeed; one step relying on the others. So, in order to prevent losing our topsoil and preserving it for future generations, we need to develop a plan to enrich, preserve and maintain biological diversity in our soils.
Ways to prevent erosion:
- Avoid any more tillage than is needed. A neatly rototilled garden looks neat but a garden with plant material, dead or alive, is better for the soil. No recreational rototilling; all this tilling breaks up soil structure and leads to erosion.
- Leave no space bare. If you're not going to plant it, sow some cover crop seed that will hold and enrich the soil naturally and prevent erosion if even on such a small scale. Toss some wildflower mix on it as well.
- If planting a cover crop is not possible, then rough up the surface of the plot to stop the flow of water. This will make the water soak into the ground and not go racing down the hill taking soil with it.
- Plan your growing area to the contour of the land. No rows up and down the hill - ever. No planting where it's really steep unless a system to stop erosion is in place - like a bark mulch on berries.
- Leave crop residue in place. At the end of the season, leave crop wastes (now called crop residues) in place. No need to move those vines or remove the sunflower stalks. Leave the unharvested crops where they are; it's not important to remove all crop residues. Leave organic mulches in place as well. Add some organic matter in the fall; leaves, mulch hay, vegetable trimmings and bedding from the barn. I run over the garden with an old bedspring towed behind my four wheeler to level the surface without removing any surface residue.
Simple, common sense ways to keep our soils where they should be. Don't think that because you have a small plot that erosion control isn't important; it is. Everyone who works the soil shares the responsibility to preserve it for the generations that are yet to come.
Until next week, Brian
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)